经济学人 | 美国人为什么不爱吃美味的亚洲鲤鱼?

经济学人 | 美国人为什么不爱吃美味的亚洲鲤鱼?

Now they are abundant in the Illinois River. Ecologists worry they will evade barriers in the waterways around Chicago and enter the Great Lakes, reducing the native fish diversity there.

如今它们在伊利诺斯河中大量存在。生态学家担心它们会避开芝加哥周围水道的屏障,进入五大湖,从而对当地鱼类的多样性造成影响。

In 2018 the Illinois Department of Natural Resources decided it would “recast” how Asian carp is perceived. Marketers were brought in. They cooked up a new name, which was released on June 22nd: copi (for copious). Nick Adam of Span, the agency behind the rebranding, says the goal was to shed the fish’s reputation as one only for adventurous eaters. Focus groups described copi as “cute” and “manageable”.

2018年,伊利诺伊州自然资源部决定“重塑”人们对亚洲鲤鱼的看法。市场营销人员也加入进来。他们想出了一个新名字,并于6月22日发布:copi(意为丰富)。鲤鱼更名背后机构 Span 的尼克·亚当说,此举的目的是为了摆脱这种鱼只适合爱冒险的食客的名声。更名小组形容 copi 是“可爱的”和“可控制的”。

Asian carp is not the first to get a makeover. The Patagonian toothfish is marketed in America as Chilean sea bass (it is neither a bass nor native to Chile). The foul-sounding slimehead has been much better known as orange roughy since the late 1970s. And managing invasive species by harvesting them is not a novel idea either.

亚洲鲤鱼并不是头一个被更名改姓的鱼类。巴塔哥尼亚齿鱼在美国以智利海鲈鱼(它既不是鲈鱼,也不是智利的特产)之名进行销售。自20世纪70年代末以来,这种听起来很恶心的滑头鱼一直被称为橙连鳍鲑。通过捕捞来控制入侵物种也不是什么新奇的想法。

The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, a federal agency, exhorts people to eat lionfish, which threaten reefs along the Atlantic coast and in the Caribbean. Louisiana’s wildlife department offers recipes for nutria, a semi-aquatic rodent with an irrepressible breeding habit.

联邦机构美国国家海洋和大气管理局鼓励人们食用狮子鱼,它们对大西洋沿岸和加勒比海的珊瑚礁构成了威胁。路易斯安那州的野生动物部门提供了海狸鼠(一种具有不可抑制的繁殖习性的半水生啮齿动物)的食谱。

Lionfish is quite well-liked, notwithstanding its 18 venomous fin spines; the toothfish’s new name was such a hit that it arguably contributed to its overfishing. But evidence is mixed about whether harvesting to control an invasive species is effective.

狮子鱼很受欢迎,尽管它有18根有毒的鳍刺;这种牙鱼的新名字如此受欢迎,可以说是导致其被过度捕捞的原因之一。但是,关于通过捕捞来控制入侵物种是否有效,证据不一。

With Asian carp, only larger fish are targeted for human consumption. A study by researchers at Michigan State University recommended that fishermen be given incentives to catch small ones too, for use in fertiliser and fish meal.

对于亚洲鲤鱼来说,只有较大的鱼才会成为人类食用的目标。密歇根州立大学的研究人员进行的一项研究建议,应该鼓励渔民捕捞小鱼,用于制作肥料和鱼粉。

But creating demand also risks impeding efforts to reduce numbers. Prairie Rivers Network, an environmental group, has opposed the copi rebranding because it seems to “incentivise a long-term sustainable carp fishery in Illinois waters”. Much will depend on whether America’s gourmands cop on to copi.

但创造需求也有可能阻碍减少其数量的努力。环保组织 Prairie Rivers Network 反对 copi 的更名,因为这似乎“激励了伊利诺伊州水域长期可持续的鲤鱼渔业”。这在很大程度上取决于美国的美食家们是否会接受 copi。

(红色标注词为重难点词汇)

重难点词汇:

mince [mɪns] v. 切碎;剁碎

propagate [ˈprɑːpəɡeɪt] v. 繁殖;传播

copious [ˈkoʊpiəs] adj. 丰富的;充裕的

irrepressible [ˌɪ(r)rəˈprɛsəb(ə)l] adj. 控制不住的;约束不了的

venomous [ˈvɛnəməs] adj. 分泌毒液的;有毒的;充满恶意的

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